The Compost Heap
News, Views, and Features from the Posh Squash Garden
The Sea Ranch, California
Early Summer 2002, Issue #3
Pill bug crossing stone
"Hey, my lineage
Is older than yours!"
~~~Gerry Wilson
by Ken Holmes & John Horn
For
the 2002-2003 gardening year, all gardeners, new and old,
will be expected to attend at least one training period with
their day leader for this most important job. Especially
when you are scheduled to water on the following weekend, arrange
to be trained by your day leader on your workday. Some new
practices have begun this year and it is vital that we all are
following in the same steps for consistent watering. The
following guide has been developed to help you determine the fine
line between overwatering and underwatering. Our garden
depends upon your knowing the difference.
Your
first responsibility is to carefully test the soil in the planted
beds for moisture in order to determine when each bed needs to be
watered during your assignment, and to note your observations on
the two WATERING CHECKLISTS. These checklists are the best
tools to document your watering and to communicate the watering
needs to the workers that follow you. Since many plant
problems (e.g. leaf drop, bitterness, blossom-end rot, etc.) are
caused by uneven watering, it is essential to know how the plants
were being watered in the past. This year we have a new
FLOWER/HERB WATERING CHECKLIST for those beds indicated on that
list. You will be expected to check these beds as well.
Please familiarize yourself with this form. As these new
beds become established and need less attention, we will be able
to combine the two forms into one again. Many herbs are
drought-resistant and will need little watering, while others
will be planted as seeds and will need more attention.
Yellow
ribbons will identify beds containing seeds, immature plants, or
transplants. Daily watering may be necessary here (with
tender seedlings and new transplants it may be necessary to water
twice a day, especially in hot weather). When seeds dry
out or stay too wet, germination ends - so test daily and keep
soil moist, but not soggy. When the roots of young
plants dry out, the plants never fully recover. Always
water these new beds with a fan sprinkler turned low (even if
there is a soaker hose or a drip system already in place for
later use). Go back and forth over the surface slowly to
allow the water to soak in below the level of the seeds or roots
while avoiding washing them out. Allow the water to be
absorbed before adding more. Watering the garden is a big
job, so work in pairs at all times.
Beds
containing well-established plants need deep watering so that
moisture reaches below the roots to draw them down into the
ground. Shallow watering = shallow roots. Plants like
soil with a healthy air/water ratio, so water thoroughly and
deeply but not too often.Their watering needs are determined by
age, temperature, humidity, wind, length of day, quality of soil,
and, in our area, FOG. Use the soil probe when deciding how
much and how often to water. Note: If, when you
squeeze a handful of soil from the probe, it clumps
together and can’t easily be divided, the soil is too moist.
If the clump crumbles when released, it is too dry. Be sure
that the full length of the beds receives adequate water
or plants at the far ends will be stunted.
When
you arrive at the garden:
1. Open the main water
valve located at the top of the garden. Turn it on slightly
(about 1/8 of a turn), wait a minute, then turn it on full
(vertical). PUT ON THE FROG.
2. Locate the
clipboards with the weekly WATERING CHECK LISTS kept in the shed.
3. Notice that crops to be
watered on specific days have their names written on the check
list; you are not to water these beds as they are watered by Day
Leaders or their assigned crew members. A list of these
crops and the days they are to be watered is posted in the shed.
4. Check the soil moisture with
a trowel (for deep-rooted plants use the soil probe) in several
places in all beds, and note on the check sheet when you will
water each. Be sure to use the appropriate symbols so the
next waterer will understand. (Note: If mulch has
been spread on the bed it may appear moist when it is not.)
Conversely, do not water simply because the surface of the
bed looks dry. Probe below the surface to determine its
moisture content.
Hoses and watering tools:
1. Hoses are kept
coiled in a "figure-8” and attached to faucets along
the main paths.
2. If you find a hose
leak, tie a red ribbon at that point and place the hose in front
of the shed unless it’s already on a bed, in which case
leave a note. If there is a leak in a main line, turn off
the main water valve and report it promptly. (See the list
of names posted in the shed.)
3. Soaker hoses are the
“oozer” type. When water pressure is too high they
become “sprayers,” which is bad for plants whose leaves
should be kept dry. (See “Specific Vegetables,”
below.) Occasionally check the full length of the hose to see how
changes in pressure are affecting the amount of water coming
through the soaker.
4. Drip irrigation
pipes must be checked when first turned on to see that the small
plastic tubes are still connected and are putting water at the
base of the plants. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TURN THE VALVE ON
THESE WATERING SYSTEMS TOO FAR – TOO MUCH PRESSURE COULD
WASH AWAY THE PLANTS!
5. Fan sprinklers and
bubblers are used for hand watering and are kept attached to the
hoses. They are equipped with individual valves which can
control pressure or temporarily shut off water when moving
from bed to bed. (When not using the hose, turn off
water at the hose bib faucet.)
Specific Vegetables:
1. Onion family, including
leeks, shallots and garlic, will be poorly developed if allowed
to get too dry. At the later “curing” stage of
their growing cycle we will post a sign to stop watering.
2. Peas, beans, cucumbers,
tomatoes and members of the squash family (vines, in general) can
mildew in our moist climate if their leaves are wet. Water
only the soil, not the leaves.
3. Members of the
lettuce/cabbage family (broccoli, kale, cauliflower, etc.) LIKE
to have their leaves wet. If you see aphids on these
plants, wash them off and be sure to notify a day leader.
CAUTIONS:
1. Watering with an open hose
washes out seeds, removes air from the soil, and causes
compacting. Reworking and replanting the bed is often
necessary – wasting time, seeds, money and hours of labor.
Use hand sprayers or sprinklers.
2. Water from sun-heated hoses
will scald plants. Before watering, empty it into the
trench alongside the bed.
3. When using the hand
sprinklers, turn off the valve on the sprinkler as you move
between beds to avoid wasting water on paths where extra water
will encourage weed growth.
4. Be aware of the hose you are
dragging behind you. Keep it away from the plants and
seedbeds.
5. When sides of beds, watering
basins, or trenches are broken down, use a hoe to repair the
damage and contain the water.
When you leave the garden:
1. Be sure you have turned off all
hose bibs (faucets).
2. Coil hoses in
“figure-8.”
3. Put away all tools.
4. Return the Checklists to the
shed and be sure you have marked all planted beds with the
appropriate symbol.
5. Turn off the main valve (to
the horizontal position). Leave the FROG – or if you
find it hanging around your neck when you go to bed at night,
return to garden and turn off water.
WATER - THE LIFE OF THE GARDEN BUT ALSO THE LIFE OF THE SALMONIDS
By Ken Holmes
I've been asked to say a few words about water and the garden so that we all better understand some of the WHYs of our watering instructions. I hope this printed word will get us closer to making the best use of our wonderful resource, the waters of the Gualala River. Water is our greatest recurring expense, next to seeds, so from an economic standpoint alone it's in our best interest to conserve. But as well, in keeping with our Sea Ranch credo of living-lightly- on-the-land, we need to always be aware of the need to conserve for all the other dependent organisms of the River's watershed.
Concerns we have had for taking the water from "our" river to supply the needs of San Diego County should give us pause to realize we also are tapping into that life-line of all growing things for our own garden. For this reason, we've set up guidelines fairly clearly stated in our annually updated Watering Plan - For All Waterers. The latest version is posted in the shed and on the web site (just above). Everyone please read it carefully for details which change a little each year.
Currently, the only "flag" (plastic ribbon) we use that pertains to watering is the yellow one, and its use has been frequently misunderstood. Whenever a bed is planted with either seeds or transplants, immediately place a yellow flag along the center aisle of the garden so that waterers will know that daily (or sometimes even twice-daily) watering is needed there. It does not mean to soak the indicated beds; it just means that they are particularly vulnerable to desiccation, so must be carefully assessed as to their needs each day. As these plants sprout and become established, the yellow flags should be removed. If you find a yellow flag in a bed where plants are obviously established and only need normal daily assessing for water, remove the flag and place it in the storage racks at the top of the garden.
Some beds are being planted differentially in time (to stagger production, etc.) and so may have yellow flags on posts in the middle or far end of a bed. Here, waterers should ensure that they understand if watering is needed. This is most often a problem where a portion of a bed has been reseeded. There should be a planting label in that portion of the bed to indicate what type of seeds have been planted, if different from the main part of the bed. And a log entry in the planting book should have been made (as always when planting) to avoid confusion.
The Posh Squash Steering Committee met on June 19, 2002. Present were Tom Warnock, Chair, Mary Austin, Jer and Sally Skibbins, Jim Grenwelge, Ben Klagenberg, Iris Borg, Ken Holmes, John Horn, Chester Case.
Long range planning options for the location of the Posh Squash was the main and most complex topic on the agenda. The Committee had many variables, contingencies and uncertainties to deal with as it considered the main apparent options: to try to remain at the present site or to get an alternative site. Exploration of what is possible and feasible will continue. A do-nothing, status quo scenario was rejected as unrealistic. Any Gardener wanting to get up to date on the ever-changing situation should contact Tom Warnock, or talk to a member of the Steering Commitee.
Parking on Timber Ridge remains a problem. The Committee urges Gardeners to carpool, and to be really, really observant of driveways.
Chester passed out a printed report on the newsletter, The Compost Heap. Though the first, lengthy issue cost more, current issues cost about $25. Alternatives to the print copy such as the website and posting in the shed were discussed. It was moved, seconded and carried that the present publication of The Compost Heap in print copy be continued.
John Horn reminded the Committee that planting plans are laid out in the section of the Chore Book behind the daily chore lists. What is to be planted, when, and in which rows is indicated. The plan is necessarily provisional, as it must be constantly adjusted and amended to respond to conditions.
A season’s planting plan has been worked out, John Horn reported. It can be found in the Chore Book. Crop by crop, row by row, you can check out what is proposed.
Among other topics was the continuing problem of consistent watering, especially for the newly seeded and transplanted crops. (Please refer to Ken Holmes’ article on watering in this issue, particularly the philosophical and practical meanings of the Yellow Ribbon). Ben reported that the rototiller is now back in full and fine fettle.
Pointing out that the big water bills have not yet started coming in, Iris Borg showed the Posh Squash Accounts for the period January l to June 16, 2002. The happy balance will not last long, and if there are unexpected expenses, may not last the season.
Highlights of the current account:
Carryover from 2001 $1980
Total dues 2002 $5500
Total expenses to date $2157
Balance $5379
Check out Ken Holmesı article in this issue on water and watering. All Gardeners are urged to water well and conserve. Seeds are also a major expense not yet reflected in the accounts. You can compare the following running totals for the main categories of Garden expenditure with last monthıs to get an idea of when and what we spend money on. The large first issue of the Compost Heap cost $104, pretty much a one time expense. Current issues run closer to $25 per issue.
Water $276
Supplies 326
Seeds 245
Fertilizer 241
Bank charge 13
Equipment 115
Services 30
Copying/Newsletter 131
Building materials 720
Greenhouse 53
Ken Holmes reports: I was up to the garden recently with my granddaughter and son-in-law to pick strawberries. (The warm weather has ripened them rapidly and they'll go to waste if we don't pick them...). But what we found lying across the path down to the green house was the following: www.photovault.com/Link/Animals/Reptiles/Snakes/Species/GopherSnake.html. (I found that in a Google search for Gopher Snakes.) I wasn't familiar with gopher snakes and it sort of startled me. It was about 3 feet long. I thought I ought to warn you in case you came across it. The beautiful thing about it (among others) was that it had a large bulge in the middle of it. If that's not a living lightly gopher trap I don't know what is. Let's all appreciate it.
Have you seen the load of manure Tom and Dick Borg hauled in from Stornetta's? It is old stuff and can be amended into the rows, and used in the compost. Use it sparingly if you amend it directly into the rows, as Chester and the Composters need it for their composting. Way to go, Tom and Dick.
Rustling in the Leaves: Book Reviews and Views
Please recommend books and articles you think your fellow Gardeners would enjoy. Better yet, send us your own reviews. Even mini-reviews will do.
The Compost Heap recommends Michael Pollan's The Botany of Desire. It goes right to the heart of what the Garden is all about.
"The garden is a place of many sacraments, an arena -- at once as common as any room and as special as a church -- where we can go not just to witness but to enact in a ritual way our abiding ties to the natural world."
Michael Pollan, The Botany of Desire
Michael Pollan's Botany of Desire, (269 pages, hardcover, Random House, 2001), is an exciting and annoying book. Maybe I should say engaging and thought-provoking. Nah -- exciting and annoying. "Exciting" for Pollan's audacity, his research, his lucid, image-rich writing and above all, his thesis. Which is: plants use humans as they use pollinators like bees -- to perpetuate and propagate their species in a reciprocal relationship of mutual exploitation. That is also the annoying part, for some readers. As a guy in my book club sputtered, "Plants don't strategize and plan their own evolution. Come on! They can't!" Of course he is right, but he misses the point of Pollan's ingenious metaphor and too quickly dismisses the Big Picture of the biosphere: That all of us species are interconnected and interact, for good or bad.
The subtitle of Botany is great: A Plant's-Eye View of the World.
An accomplished, resourceful journalist and dedicated Gardener of the Organic persuasion, Pollan develops his contention by describing the histories, effects, and strange life and times of four plants: potato, apple, tulip, and marijuana. Bet you didnıt know Johnny Appleseed (in Pollan's view) apotheosized the Dionysian spirit and died a rich man. Or that the super scientific search for the perfect potato for the perfect fast food french fry sends far-reaching and powerful waves of change across agriculture, economics, habitat, ecosystems, biodiversity, and the chowdown habits of countless persons.
Pollan also authored a highly readable memoir, Second Nature; a Gardener's Education (304 pages, paperback, Delta, 1991). He is a contributing editor at Atlantic Monthly and frequently appears in The New York Times Magazine. One article that grabbed me was "How organic became a marketing niche and a multibillion-dollar industry. NATURALLY." (The New York Times, May 13, 2001, available on the web at: www.mindfully.org/Food/Organic-Industrial-Complex.htm). Other articles by Michael Pollan include "Produce politics," The New York Times, 14 January 2001 (www.nytimes.com/magazine/20010114mag-wwln.html) and "Power Steer," NYT, 31 March 2002 (www.nytimes.com/2002/03/31/magazine/31BEEF.html). Note: The New York Times web site requires registration, but access to these and many other articles is free.
Michael Pollan is an author after an Organic Gardener's own heart.
Chester
By Reva Basch
Rhubarb is one of those crops -- like fava beans and tomatillos -- that many Gardeners avoid because they simply don't know what to do with it. A casual nibble doesn't exactly reveal its charms. Rhubarb is inedible raw, and unbearably tart unless cooked with a generous measure of sugar or other sweetener. The Rhubarb Marketing Board, if such an entity exists, has its work cut out for it. How many other plants, except for unglamorous celery, offer up their stalks for harvest? And what about those poisonous leaves? Yet, like favas and tomatillos, rhubarb has its fierce adherents. In fact, some rhubarb fans regard strawberry-rhubarb pie as an insipid, adulterated abomination. I'm not one of them.
(Recipe adapted from Farm Journal's Country Cookbook, Revised edition, Doubleday, 1972)
Pastry for 2-crust pie
1-1/4 cup sugar
1/8 tsp salt
1/3 cup flour
2 cups fresh strawberries, trimmed and cleaned
2 cups rhubarb stalk, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 Tbsp butter or margarine
1 Tbsp sugar
Roll out half the pastry and place it in a 9-inch pie pan.
Combine sugar, salt and flour.
Mix strawberries and rhubarb; arrange half the mixture in pie pan.
Sprinkle with half the sugar mixture.
Add the remaining fruit to pan. Sprinkle with the remaining sugar mixture. Dot with butter or margarine.
Roll out remaining pastry for top crust (or make a lattice crust). Top pie with crust and flute edges.
Brush top of pie with cold water and sprinkle on 1 Tbsp sugar. If making a solid top crust, cut vents to let steam escape.
Bake at 425 degrees for 40-50 minutes or until rhubarb is tender and crust is browned. If pie browns too quickly, cover top loosely with foil for part of the baking period.
[Baker extraordinaire Ken Holmes adds: "Your rhubarb pie recipe is just about identical to mine though I've found that 1/3 cup of minute tapioca goes well instead of flour. Pie must cool thoroughly though or it can be runny. I've made two already and one heaping basket of berries is just about 2 cups when cleaned and sliced."]